My Acknowledgments and Parting Words

I have never intended to write this memoir, so I never kept any records on events that happened or buildings that took shape in Jalan Kampong Cina. I have to depend on my memories and rely on others for information. It became very frustrating when the relevant Government agencies are unable to throw any lights on your enquiries and giving you a wild goose chase by referring you from one section to another. Either the perple in charge are too lazy to search for the records or they are too ignorant. The worst was my enquiry regarding public utility implemented by the Government to Kuala Terengganu Town. I was referred to one senior administration officer who must have overheard of my intention, and before I could reach his desk he arrogantly snap at me. I just turn my back and walked off. This gave a very bad impression of the type of civil servants, even though it is now privatised..

Even the town folks whom I approached (if I don`t know them, I wouldn`t have done so), just gave me an empty stares and passed irritating remarks, as though I was trying to pry and claim their ancestral properties. But there are always someone who are helpful, especially Mr.Tan Kian Pheng who gave me the name and year of the sinking of her grandfather`s cargo ship and also the year of his grandfather`s demise;  and Ah Mek of CHEE SENG sundry shop, who kept a record of the great fire of 1983 and willingly shared with me. I owe them my appreciations.

I must also record my thanks and appreciations to Y. BHG. DATO` WEE CHENG HUAT and MR. GAN YEW CHEW for sharing their life stories with me, and also to MR. TOH HOCK CHIN and MR. TAN TENG CHAW and his brother, TENG HOON for permitting me to include their late fathers` stories in my memoirs.

To know the date of the completion of Pasar Kedai Payang, I had to go round and enquired from the stall owners, such as how long they had being operating, or when they started their business, or whether they are the original stall owners. From all those information, I can roughly deduce the year (though not the month) when the market was completed. So is the same with the constructions of Jalan Kampong Tiong and its glutton square.

Whenever I have the chance, I would stroll down Jalan Kampong Cina early in the morning, looking at the architectural beauties of the old buildings, feeling the cool breeze and calmness of  early morning Chinatown. It rejuvenate me and the feeling I have is beyond descriptions. As age is catching up, my memories might not be able to recall all and might have miss certain events. As all that I wrote are from my own memory and might differ from others. I pray that Kampong Cina will remain as it is for generations to come.  

Lorong Hajil Jamil & Jalan Kampong Tiong

There are a lot of mentions in the records regarding Lorong Haji Jamil. It is actually a back lane for Jalan Kampong Cina. Since the day I started schoolings in 1949, from Ah Hwa Lorong (Tau Kay Wee Sin Hee Lane), I passed through this back lane and came out at Jalan Banggol to go to Chung Hwa Wei Sin School in Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin. This lane connects Jalan Banggol to Jalan Kampong Cina through the side lane of Meng Huat Trading. It was a narrow dirt track then. In  1950`s it was tarred with drains on both sides and this Lorong Haji Jamil is about 15 ft. wide. There are a couple of sharp corners making it difficult for cargo vehicles or busses to negotiate.

In mid 1970`s, a new road was constructed connecting Kampong Cina through the side lane of Meng Huat Trading straight to Jalan Banggol. As it is going to be a proper road, two small brick houses by the side of the Ho Ann Keong and the 2 street stalls selling drinks had to make way for a wider road. Of the two bricks houses, one belonged to a tailor (whose daughter sells local delicacies in the morning and newspaper at No. 203) and another one was that of Ah Phong fried mee; one of the drink stall was that of Sin Bu, father of Bu Wan coffee stall in Kampong Tiong and another one belonged to Ah Pek Lau, father of  Lee Leng Seng of Public Works Department.  Many wooden houses of the village  had to be sacrified. One of the houses was that of Po Mek Lor, a local delicacies maker and seller. Her great-grandson owns one of the 2 ornamented electric lamps shops near Chinese Primary School in Jalan Sultan Mohamad.

When Jalan Kampong Tiong was completed in early 1980`s. a glutton square with parking lots was build. There are two rows of stalls, one row for Muslim foods and another row for non-Muslim. Every morning, few shades are put up, by the side of the drain, for the sale of local delicacies. During the week-ends, the travelling businesses vans would put up canopies to display their goods, such as kitchen wares and ladies` clothing. By 11.00 am. this parking lots will be cleared of morning businesses. By the side of the Jalan Kampong Tiong in the parking compound is the over century old famous “Low Tiey” well. Another famous well was the one behind Sultana cinema known as `Hong Guan` well. Many households which did not have wells of their own, especially the 3 rows of wooden houses standing on stilts over the river bed near the bridge, depended on those 2 wells for their daily needs of water.  The individual who carried the water to the household would charge 20 cents for every `pikul`. Each `pikul` consisted of two 4 gallons (16 litres) tin containers filled with water hanging on both ends of 5 foot long pole and carried across the shoulder. Once the supply of pipe water by the Government was implemented in the 1950`s, those 2 wells were no more utilised. `Low Tiey` well is preserved for historical and heritage purpose. The `Hong Guan` well was covered up when Sultana cinema was demolished to turn into The Store parking lots. If I am not mistaken, the parking lots guard house is the spot where the Hong Guan well was. `Low Tiey` well was dig by Low Tiey Lim Keng Hoon (1820-1882) in 1875. `Low Tiey` was actually the title bestowed to the leader of Hokkien community in those days. Nothing much is known of `Hong Guan` well, except that Hong Guan was the name of a very rich individual who owned the land.

The area along Jalan Kampong Tiong 2 was a squatter area. There was a lady known as `Po Chai Sim` with a substantial piece of land which she cultivated `sayour rampai` (a variety of different edible plants), the mixture of their leaves together with mash grill fish are used for cooking porridge – `bubur lambut` or spicy `sayour rampai` soup. Talking of these 2 dishes, I always think of my dear mother. When I was small, I used to accompanied her to `Po Chai Sim`s place to buy `sayour rampai`. My mother always warned me not to touch any plant of this `po`. She was very grumpy and always complained of headache which I think could be the cause leading to her behaviour. Due to obvious reason, she passed her property to her daughter. When Jalan Kampong Tiong 2 was open in early 1980`s, the land of `Po Chai Sim` became a gold mine as the road pass in front of her land. A row of 5 shop houses of 4 stories high was built and the daughter/grand-daughter of the old lady had the share of shop houses. WAN HAI coffee shop and CLINIC KOH are among the occupants of the houses.

The electric supply to the Town was in early 1950`s. In the initial stage, the supply was for 12 hours only during the night.

The Chinese Medicine Shops

There were 3 medicine shops and they were located at the `phor` section. The one nearest the bridge house No. 109, THYE HO, was a very successful Chinese `sinseh` who managed to send all his children, 4 boys and a girl, to further their studies in Australia and all of them are  Australian citizen now. He remarried when his old wife passed away and the only son of the young wife was educated in Australia. The young wife moved to other state where the son is employed after the old `sinseh` passed away.  Few doors away at house No. 117 was another Chinese `sinseh`, THYE ANN, and also a successful one. But in later stage, he became more indulgence in pigeons and neglected his business. The whole shop was full of pigeon droppings and business dropped. He was in poor health before he passed away. One of the daughters married an English teacher, another one was a hospital matron, and few other daughters and a son. They all moved to west coast. Another one was further up the road at house No. 167 was ENG SENG CHAN. When the old `sinseh` passed away, nobody took over his place. The 2 elder sons ran the business, the 3^rd. son went to Singapore to train as Chinese `sinseh` but never came back to the shop. The eldest brother later moved to Tanjong area to open his own Chinese medicine shop. The one at No.167 later fold up and the shop is now occupied by a island resort company. The one near the market POH ANN came into the picture sometime in 1970` or early 1980`s and occupied the ancestral home of Y. BHG. Dato` Teo Eng Joo, next to YONG HWA original shop. POH ANN moved to present shop when the earlier shop was demolished for multi-storey parking lots. Another one is opposite glutton square, LEE TRADITIONAL CHINESE MEDECINE CENTRE, at the lane leading to The Store parking lots. The shop is not in a very `attractive` place, next to Hokkien/Kuantun funeral parlour.

The Commercial Banks in China Town

Before 1960, there was only on commercial bank in Town, i.c. Mercantile Bank, and is now known as HSBC (Hong Kong & Shanghai Bank Corp). In early 1960`s, Malayan Banking and Chartered Bank open their branches in Kuala Terengganu. Both these banks operated from Jalan Kampong Cina, as other parts of the Town were not develop yet for commercial purposes.

THE MALAYAN BANKING opened its branch from a house, No. 162, which was formally Kew Leong Aerated Water Factory. The flavour then was `orange` only. Due to certain circumstances, the building fell into the hand of another person. The factory owner, a very nice old man was broken hearted and passed away soon after. When UMNO building in Jalan Sultan Ismail was completed in late 1960`s, the Bank shifted in until its own building across the road was ready in 1981.

THE CHARTERED BANK opened its branch in 1961, and was housed in old Kuang Tung Association, just opposite  old Hokkien Huay Kuan building at the entrance of Jalan Kampong Cina. In late 1960`s, it moved to its own building in Jalan Sultan Ismail, but the branch in Kuala Terengganu closed down in 2009. The building is now occupied by Hong Leong Islamic Bank and OSK Investment Bank.

Commercial Hubs

Jalan Kampong China was the commercial hubs of the Town before  Jalan Banggol and Jalan Paya Bunga (now Sultan Ismail) were developed in early 1960`s for commercial use. From the bridge down to the market, `pasat` section, was the textile and daily used products area. During the Holy Month of Ramadhan, when the dry market in Tanjong which opened only during day time, after Isyak we can see sea of people converged to this small section of China Town to do their shopping until midnights. At any other time, it was normal to see shops in this sections of China Town closed at 9 – 10pm. In 1960`s, shops began to come up in Jalan Banggol and Jalan Sultan Ismail, and the opening of a couple of shopping complex, the `pasat` section of Jalan Kampong Cina became a dead town, by 6 in the evening, all shops were already closed  except for a couple of `batik` sellers.

From the bridge up to the `phor` section, was the provisions and pork selling area Only local `Kampong` fowls were available then. So eating chickens was a rare occasion, only during festive seasons or special occasion like `chor kee` (prayer in remembrance to the ancestral deaths). Commercial broiler chickens only appeared in the markets in mid 1960`s. There were 3 Chinese medicine shops which had already close down.. Before the timber booms of 1970`s, that section of Jalan Kampong Cina was very quiet. As for breakfast, there was not much choice. Other than a couple of coffee shops,  there were 2 shops selling `chok` - chicken or pork porridge and one street stall at the Teck Beng Lorong selling `Bakutteh`. During the timber boons of 1970`s, there was an influx of outsiders to Kuala Terengganu. More `bakuteh` shops were open and `mee` soup stalls opened in the existing coffee shops too.

Before 1980`s, there was a glutton square at the `hai kuan phor`, it was on the spot where the end section of Sri Malaysia Hotel is. The square had 2 rows of stalls, total about 12 in number, mostly occupied by Malay food sellers. There were 2 Chinese food stalls at the far end, one an economic food (chap fun) stall and the other a fry mee stall. The middle part of the Hotel was the taxi stands and the parking section of the Hotel was the SHELL petrol/service station – owned by Teck Siang. Those stall owners in that glutton square moved to Kampong Tiong glutton square when it opened in 1982. 

Timber booms did not last very long and the China Town seem to be stagnant until in late 1970`s or early 1980`s, one young man, MR. YAP CHUAN BIN, had a vision to develop Redang Island into tourist playground, because of its scenic  beauties and rich marine habitats for snorkel divers.  He started by setting up camps and organised trips to the Island. News spread of the beauties of the Island and his promotions spread to the West Coast. Later, he set up a partnership with a very rich friend and a contact from West Coast to build a Resort. The business was thriving and soon others followed suit and the whole Island was mushroom with resorts. Since then, from the month of March to October, every week-end and school holidays, early in the mornings, busses load of tourists arrived  in `phor` section of China Town, giving a rousing business to the morning stalls of Kampong Tiong glutton square, before taking a ferry or boat rides to the Island. Some of them in their shorts and inner clothing ready to deep in the crystal clear warm water of Redang Island.

After more than 25 years of going to the Island, Mr. Yap decided to call it a day and passed his resort to his partners and acts as agent and promoter for the Resorts in the Redang Island through his Malaysian and overseas contacts. All the resorts` owners as well as morning food stalls in Jalan Kampong Cina, near the arch, owe him the dues. The Terengganu State Tourism should give Mr. Yap Chuan Bin the credits for spearheading the only industry the State can offer ( other than man-made Kenyir hydro electric dam lake which is only good for anglers, and Sekayu waterfall, only locals go there) The Redang Island generates a lot of revenues for the resort owners and also improved the economy and well-being of all sectors of  Kuala Terengganu folks – from the grocery shops, chicken sellers, vegetable sellers, souvenirs shops  down to fish crackers sellers of Pasar Kedai Payang. But the most important of all is that Mr. Yap has directly or indirectly helped to improve the livelihood of fishing folks of Redang Island. His liaisons with Marine Park personals to conserve this Natural Underwater Heritage make him a role model for others resort owners to follow.  Once this Heritage is destroyed, that would be the end of tourism in Kuala Terengganu.

Many articles had been written about Chinese community of China Town, some dated as far back as 15^th. Century. They came mostly as traders from Fujian in Southern China. Some ventured up the Terengganu and settled in Kampong Tirok and across the river in Kampong Pulau Bahagia (formerly Kg. Pulau Babi}.  Up the Terengganu River tributary, Sungai Nerus, is the famous Sam Poh Kong Temple. It is said that the Temple was built in memory of the spot where Admiral Cheng Ho landed. To the Hokkien, the place is popularly known as `Sam Poh Kan` (Sam Poh River). In the days gone by, the `Peranakan` Hokkien devotees from China Town used to travel up by boats to pay homage there. Now the place is accessible by road.

The Hokkien of China Town, Kampong Tirok, Kampong Pulau Bahagia and Batu Nam(6),whose ancesters were here 2 or 3 centuries ago are so well assimilated with the locals that their features and ways of life are akin to that of the Malays. The old generations Hokkien are more comfortable in `sarong`. To them, the food would taste better if taken with `gulai ikan`, sambal belacan` or budu`. Even their dialect has trace of Malay words in them. They could be termed as `PERANAKAN` of Kuala Terengganu. They are involved in trading.

According to the records, after 1900, more Hokkien of Chin Chiang clan came to Kuala Terengganu. Their ways of life are entirely different from those of `peranakan`. When I was small, they were normally referred to as `TEAN SUA LAN` (China people), older generation were `TEAN SUA APEK` (China uncle) and `TEAN SUA ACHIM` (China auntie). They are involved in sundry shops.

There were a few of them whom I can remember. Klinik Leong was the original sundry shop of `TUA TIAW PEK`. The shop closed down when the old man passed away. Later the wife and his 2 sons moved to west coast. Another one was `GOH CHIN SENG` whose shop, near the market, was one of the row of houses demolished to make way for the multi-stories car park. The 2 children are still around in town. The shop where the Phua Brothers Household Products is, was formerly that of HENG LEE CHAN which dealt in local salted fish and exported to Singapore. One of the children of its employee, Tan Kian Chai, who stayed next to the house of Mdm. Tan Kim Eng`s (roti paun) paternal grand-parents, was Public Works Department`s mechanic. I do not know where the family moved to. House No. 27, Jalan Kampong Cina, by the side of entrance to Pasar Kedai Payang was that of HENG SOON CHAN, a grocery shop selling all imported food stuffs, such as frozen bacon, ham, chicken and imported eggs from Australia and many others, catering for the needs of European customers. The father of Mr. Lee Mar Choy, `Pek Chai` (also of Chin Chiang clan), was the manager there. Prior to 1960`s, there were no layer or broiler farms in Terengganu (I do not know about other States}. When I was less than 10 years old, once in a while, my mother asked my late 2<sup>nd</sup>. sister and myself to buy frozen chicken or imported eggs from the shop. On our way home, I would proudly tell those whom we encountered, `o chew kay` or `o chew nuar`. The descendent of great philanthropist, Mr. Tay Wee Jin, of HONG BEE TOBACCO, did not carry on with the trade, because of Government policy. The descendents of Chin Chiang clan of Jalan Kampong Cina, who are still in business are that of Y>Bhg. Dato` Seri Dato` Toh Chwee Biow of Chin Guan INDUSTRY, CHEE SENG sundry shop, KIAN SENG sundry shop and SIN CHUAN HONG hardware shop.

The Great Fire of China Town

In late 1970`s, when the Capitol cinema stopped operation, its wooden building was left neglected. It became a smoking den for drug addicts and the building went up on fire which spread to wooden upper floor of old Kuan Tung Association which was later replaced by 4 stories building. That was the end of Capitol cinema building.

One night in 1981, a big fire razed a row of 6 double stories wooden houses near the Ho Ann Keong Temple. The houses belong to Mdm. Poh Ai Choo who is a news vendor in front of The Store, a sundry shop of Ang Nyeow So (mother or Mrs. Chin Kong Nam nee Wee Siew Bee), a small bicycle repair shop where in the morning the wife would sell deep-fried `chai kuey` (a type of carrot cake of 3 inch square and ¼” thick), Ah Meng kopitiam, Phua rattan chair shop (formally Hai Thean `char mee`) and lastly, house of `Po` Kiam Khuan, whose husband, Hai Pin, used to slaughter and sell exotic meat, such as fresh water soft-shell turtles (terrapin), python and iguana. Ho Ann Keong Temple was spared but to be destroyed on the night of 22.2.2010. Three of the razed houses were rebuilt except for the 2 houses next to the Temple. As for the small bicycle shop, the landlord took advantage of the walls of 2 new buildings by putting up only the roof and rents it out to pork seller. The only house belonged to a Malay man was that of Phua rattan chair shop. The land of the Malay man was bought by Terengganu Hokkien Association, the trustee of Ho Ann Keong Temple. When the Temple was burn down in 2010, a temporary temple was built on this site until restoration works on the razed Temple was completed at the end of 2011. The narrow piece of land next to the Temple belongs to many owners and the Association was in the midst of acquiring it (Annual Meeting 2011)

Another great fire occurred on the night of 27.11.1983. A row of 7 double stories wooden houses and 3 semi-concrete ones near the bridge, on the `ua sua` side of the road went up in flame. Seven of which, nearest to the bridge, were built on stilts were completely burned down. There was a tragic loss of life – a young son of photographic shop owner. That was a unique row of houses occupied by all main dialects of Chinese community – Dato` Tan Eng Ann motor cycle/motor car shop (Hokkien lan), Mr. Toh Teck Tee`s resident (Hokkien lan), Ma Chee Seng grocery shop (Hokkien lan), 2 houses of Ah Hong kopitiam (Hainaness), Lee Hong Tai denture maker (Shanghainess), Ah Nua goldsmith (Cantoness), Melong photography (Hakka), Tong Hai Ang toy shop (Teochew) and next to the bridge, Yeo kah (shake legs) ( Hokkien `lan) The 7 houses on stilts were on Government land under TOL (Temporary Occupation of Land) and the Authority had reclaimed the land for future use.

The Entertainment

There were no televisions prior to early 1970`s. The only form of entertainment at homes was that of radios. There were 2 cinema theatres at the beginning of China Town – Capitol Theatre and Sultana Theatre. The pictures shown at that time were the productions of Paramount, Columbia, 20<sup>th</sup>. Centuary Fox and MGM. Musicals which I remember  were `Seven Brides For Seven Brothers` acted by Howard Keel, `Oklahoma` and some others acted by Doris Day; many western movies, the actor I remember well was John Wayne with his style of walking. Sword fighting and pirate movies acted by Errol Flynn and agile Buck Lancaster were very common. Of course there were romantic pictures too, I do not know much, except for one popular actor, Clark Gable  with his razor-thin moustache and `chikky` grin acted in the famous `Gone With The Wind`. Another heart-throb actor was Rock Hudson and beautiful Elizabeth Taylor. Later on Capitol Theatre showed a lot of Malay pictures produced by Shaw Brothers of Singapore. Though Indian community was very small in the Town, Hindustani pictures were very popular, because of the beautiful actors and actress, songs and sceneries, they appealed more for Malays and some Chinese ladies. The cinemas also showed Chinese movies from Hong Kong. Once in a while, a Chinese travelling performing troupes of varieties shows would stop by either in one of those cinemas to perform. There was a Hokkien opera troupe which was disbanded in Kuala Terengganu. A brother and sister members, including another member of the troupe and their families decided the start a new life in Kuala Terengganu. The sister, Yap Cheng Cheng started a coffee shop named `Cheng Cheng Teh Tiam` which is still in operation next to The Store parking lots and is run by her son. The brother, Yap Cheng Hai hawk his home-made ice cream and later `rojak putih` around China Town. He had passed away and one of his children is still in town.. Their friend, Ah Chai end up hawking fried mee on tricycle carrier around town. In any functions, especially the processions for His Royal Highness The Sultan`s birthdays or Chinese lantern festivals (Tongchew), the 2 comedian pair of Yap Cheng Hai and Ah Chai would lend their support by having comical make-up and walking and running on 6 feet high stilts along with the processions.

Between the 2 cinemas, there was a coffee shop known as ~Ah Chew` (Asia) and a popular well behind Sultana Theatre. Behind those 2 theatres were the residences of Mr. How Kok Meng of HSBC and that of Chartered Bank`s Toh Swee Choo whose mother produced Chinese noodles (Mee) for sale in the market. There was the house of Mr. Lau Kong Ming who got lost overnight in the jungle of Pulau Kapas, a popular picnic spot among the seniors. The news of his mishap spread very fast in town and the people were worried for him as he was a very bright boy. He was one of the local bright boys sent to Kirby/Brinsford Lodge in England to attend teaching course. The original Tien Kee Restorant was around that area too. The extension at the back of Capitol cinema was a billiard saloon. I used to follow my late good buddy, Wee Seng Lim, who was 2 years my senior, I was then 13 years old, to that saloon to watch him competed with couples of adults. He was tall for his age and looked mature. He had a faithful trishaw man, named Khalid, to take him around liked big boss. He was very clean and health conscious, never drink or smoke until his unfortunate death in his 60`s.  With the constructions of Cathay and Rex cinemas, the 2 wooden cinemas, Capitol and Sultana, became obsolete  -  Capitol  was later destroyed in the fire and a new shopping complex was built which was later taken over by ` The Store Supermarket` and Sultana theatre was demolished and  becomes the parking lots for The Store.

Before the construction of Jalan Kampong Tiong, the present parting spot and glutton stalls was an empty open space. A couple of circus came to perform there. One of the circus was Tai Tien Kew whose main attractions was the performance of few blind-folded motor cyclist riding inside a big steel globe. Another circus advertised its main attraction was a man wrestling a gorilla. It turned out that the man was actually wrestling a tame and friendly orang utan. Like all circus they would not be completed without trapeze performers and caged big cats with trainer having a whip in one hand and a chair in another.

Another attractions in Cina Town when we were small were `Pak Koon Bay Koe Yoke`. They were actually performances by Chinese medicine men to attract potential customers. The venue was always at an empty space beside Meng Huat Trading popularly known as Teck Beng Lorong. They would do their trades at night with 2 or 3 harricant lamps The styles those medicine men used were almost  all the same except for their products and their acts. They would put on loose long pants with a piece of cloths wrapped around their waists, without any shirts. With forceful voice, the men would shout in a short sentence, the sidekicks would repeat the last few words followed by the banging of cymbals twice. To show his might, one would use a 8 feet long ¼ inch iron bar and asked a volunteer to poke and pushed the iron rod against his throat until the iron bar band. In another performance, the man would use a 3 feet long 2 inches wide metal bar of 1/8 inch thick and asked a burly man from the public to hit his chest with the iron bar until it bend. Really pity those medicine men, had to endure so much pain to sell their products. The businesses were always good as the Kuala Terengganu town did not have much choice of Chinese medicines in the shop at that time.. One of those medicine men whom I still remember was the great Lim Tai Soon, with his barrel size chest and hair like that of Johnny Weissmuller – the Tarzan.

Another form of old entertainments were `selap mata` and snake charmer by Indian men and their assistants who were mostly young boys. They were always held at `sua pek` between 2 rows of buildings in the afternoon. They did not sell anything. After the shows, the young assistants would go round asking for donation from the audences who were very sporting and willingly contributed.

Once a year, during the Sultan`s birthday, there will be shows at Istana Maziah. Stages would be put up for `mayong`, wayang kulit, `joget` where an intended dancers from the floor would buy tickets and presented them to the `joget` dancers on the stage and had a chance to dance. The Chinese `wayang` were always held on the other side of the Padang Maziah, at the present Shah Bandar parking lots,  as the performers were always very noisy. Those Chinese wayang were sponsored by Chinese businessmen to make the celebrations into a more festive mood. People from all parts of town crowded at the Padang to see the shows while the royalties were entertaining the distinguished guests in the fenced Palace. Private transportations were rare and `Honda Cub` motors were never in the drawing board yet. The faithful subjects of the Sultan from Pulau Kambing areas and as far as Cabang Tiga would walk all the way, passing in front of our house in China Town, making a bee line (or ant line) to the Padang to watch a once a year affair entertainments. Normally, the performances would last for a few nights and in one of those nights His Royal Highness would come down to the Padang and walked around in appreciations of the efforts put up by performers as well as donors.

With the introduction of television in early 1970`s, all those travelling shows just died off, even cinema theatres had to close down. There were no more celebrations at the Padang Maziah to mark the big occasions.

The Markets

Before Merdeka, at the end of Jalan Kedai Payang (Kg. Cina) ,  stood a  wooden wet market with only roof over it. The market operated from afternoon onward when the fishermen brought their catch home in their `payang` fishing boats. In those days, there were no modern motorised fishing boats. About 20 feet long `payang` boats, each with 10 – 12 fishermen in it. Each half of the fishermen were on each side of the boat. Before the break of dawn, we, people from `ua hai` could hear those fishermen row their boats in unison when their rowing bows hit against the sides of their `payang` boats. By noon, they would be back with their catch. The wet market was actually situated at the edge of open land called `sua pek` (white sand) which was by the estuary of Terengganu River. This `sua pek` was the playing ground for children from `pasat`. Maybe before the erection of the wet market, the fishermen would sell their catch from their `payang` boats by the river side. That was how the place is called Kedai Payang. By the side of this wet market, on the main road of Kedai Payang, stood 2 units of 2 stories concrete buildings, one belonged to prominent Teochew businessman whose grocery shop was called YONG HWA; another one belonged to relative of Y>BHG. DATO` TEO ENG JOO. The floor levers of those 2 building were about 3 feet higher than the road. Then there was a row of about 11 two stories brick buildings. Two prominent politicians were among the residents of those houses – one was a Town Councillor, the late MR. GAN CHONG  BIN, the father of Miss Annie Gan of MCA; another one was the owner of CHIN HIN bicycle shop,  who was one of the founding members of the now defunct Kuala Terengganu`s branch PARTY NEGERA. There were also a coffee shop with Malay lady `pelayan`, a tailor shop, KWONG LEE goldsmith and also 2 or 3 Indian muslim spices shops, a departmental shop and a grocery shop of Mr. Goh Seng Huat. In late 1970`s or early 1980`s, these whole row of houses were demolished by the Authority to make way for multi-stories car part for the Central Market

The dry market was situated in Tanjong area on the site where Astaka Supermarket now stand. The dry market opened in the morning only, by noon there were not much activities. There were varieties of local delicacies and food, such as `nasi dagang` for breakfast. It was here that local vegetables produced by villagers were sold, they were mostly `kangkong, sawi, long beans, reddish and bean sprout. The people from Kampong Cina did not come to this dry market to get their greens. They got their greens from a few small scale vegetable growers from `aboi kubon` which is near Kampong Tiong area now. The wives would sell their produces from door to door in Kampong Cina.  I knew of 2 vegetable growers who double their incomes by selling other food stuffs. One was `Aman` who was famous for his `seo kai` (roasted chicken). He would place his `seo kai` on a 2` x 3` wooden `plat-form` together with his chopping board, knife and sauce and balanced on his head, going down the road, before noon, shouting `seo kai, seo kai`. With 50c you can buy a small portion. In the afternoon, another vegetable grower, `Ah Thong` koewteow soap seller`s father would sell his home-made ice-cream `potong/batang` for 5c each.

Behind the main building of dry market in Tanjong were few rows of about 10` x 10` cubicles for traders. They would display their merchandises on a 3 feet high platform. They were mostly clothing material and other products for personal uses. I did not know whether those traders kept their merchandises there or not. I knew of one, `yee` Wan Kheng (mother of MR. CHUA BOON HOCK) who would have her merchandises bundled up with cloths and brought them with her in trishaws to the market and returned with them in the afternoon. Cars were not easily affordable. Only the very rich could afford to own cars. Unlike today, every Tom, Dick and Harry can afford cars. When the central market complex, Pasar Kedai Payang was completed in 1970`s or early 1980`s, this dry market in Tanjong was demolished to make way for concrete building where Astaka Supermarket now stands.

 On the other end of `sua pek` along Jalan Tanjong (Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin), a clock tower was erected for the purpose of declaration of Independence on August 31, 1957. On that historical night, I was there to witness it. Right on the dot of midnight, there was a shout of `Merdeka! Merdeka! Merdeka` The Union Jack was lowered and a new Malayan Flag was raised by uniformed personals. There were a lot of high ranking officials and dignitaries there. One of the English man accepted the folded Union Jack presented to him. I supposed he must be the British Adviser (BA) for the State, which my parent used to mention, as a lot of English personnel used to patronise my parent`s crockery shop. In fact I went to witness the eventful night without knowing head or tail about the politic and of what Independence means until I was much older.

In early 1970`s, the Clock Tower was move to the junction of Jalan Kedai Payang (Jln. Kampong Cina), Jalan Tanjong (Jln. Sultan Zainal Abidin) and Jalan Kampong Daek (Jln. Kota), to make way for new central market, Pasar Kedai Payang. This historical and unfortunate Clock Tower was again removed to, I do not know where, as it post as an obstruction to the flow of traffics when the new multi-stories car park was completed in 1980`s. There must be an auspicious spot for such a historical monument to be placed, as it was not very big. Maybe the Authority at that time did not want to remember the Colonial era, as it was not carefully removed as when it was first removed from `sua pek` to the junction where the 3 roads meet. Recently, there erect a clock tower at the Water Front,  Jalan Balik Bukit, the structure resemble that of the original, but the original one had cultural and economic activities curvings on slabs on all 4 sides just below the clocks. With the new Centre Market, Pasar Kedai Payang completed and in operation in mid-1970`s, we saw a few young Chinese men from West Coast ventured to Kuala Terengganu to start as large scale importers and retailers of West Coast vegetables. Only then, the people of this Kuala Terengganu town had the chance of tasting such vegetables as kalian, sear pak chai, corniflower, carrot and some others.

Hokkien Huay Kuan

At the beginning of China Town, near the arch, on the river side is the old building of Hokkien Huay Kuan. It was founded in 1940 by a group of  Hokkien lan. They were MR. TAY WEE JIN (the maternal grand-father of Tan Kian Peng(Or Ee)),  MR. TAN GARK HUI(Later Dato`) (maternal grand-father of Dato` Toh Seng Tat),  DATO` TEO YEW HUI (father of Dato` Teo Eng Tiong, the only non-Malay ever to hold the post of State Treasurer in Terengganu State),  MR. LAU YU KHENG (a Singaporean, the earliest clerk of Teck Siang Company),  MR. TAN SOON HOCK (father of late Dato` Tan Eng Ann),  MR.TAN GUAN JOO (grand-father of Tan Tiow Kheng of No. 211 Jalan Kampong Cina),  MR. TEO CHUAN GUAN (the pre-war headmaster of Chung Hwa Wei Sin School, an outsider, he was accused of being China`s sympathiser and beheaded by the Japanese during the Occupation.  A Memorial had been erected at the Chinese Cemetery in Jalan Pusara, in remembrance of him),  MR TOH TECK TEE (father of Toh Heng Hin). The Association rented a house for its meeting and members` gathering. During the Japanese Occupation, the Association disbanded and documents destroyed in order to prevent the Japanese`s attention.

After the war in 1945, the Association re-established and based at a rented house. The committee members were head by Mr. Tay Wee Jin, Mr. Tan Gark Hui, Mr. Tan Kang Soon (son of the founder member, Tan Guan Joo) and Chang Chin Kay ( I am not very sure whether he was the same gentleman who stayed at one of the wooden houses on stilts in Jalan Kampong Daek (now Jalan Kota) ) Mr. Tan Gark Hui started the ball rolling for the Building Funds for the  Association. With its own building at No. 217, Jalan Kampong Cina which was completed in 1949, to be proud of, the memberships soon increased many folds. Many activities were organised. Chinese night classes were started to help those English educated children and over-aged children who were unable to gain entry into main stream Schools to learn Chinese Language. Children from other dialects or clans took advantage of the night class at the expense of Hokkien children.

Hokkien Huay Kuan had a good relationship with Trengganu Chinese Musical and Sports Association (TCMSA) at Jalan Paya Bunga (Jalan Sultan Ismail), whose members were all Hokkien lan. When the Government acquired the TCMSA`s land, the sums of RM300,000.00 which were compensated by the Authority were donated by TCMSA`s members to subsidised Hokkien Association to buy 3 units of shop houses. TCMSA was officially dissolved on 30^th. June, 1974 and its saving of $6,701.10 was donated to Chung Hwa Wei Sin Chinese School Alumni Building Fund. In 1978, Hokkien Huay Kuan moved to its new building at Jalan Sultan Ismail.

The Presidents of Hokkien Huay Kuan at No. 217, Jalan Kampong China were:- (a) MR. TAY WEE JIN served 6 terms from 1940 to 1954,  (b) Y. BHG. DATO SERI TOH CHWEE BIOW served 2 terms from 1955 to 1958,  (c)  Y. BHG. DATO` TAN GARD HUI served 8 terms from 1959 to 1976, and (d) MR. LOW HAI WAN served 1 term from 1977 to 1978 before Hokkien Association moved to its new building in Jalan  Sultan Ismail.

Most of the information on the Hokkien Huay Kuan is extracted from its 60^th. Anniversary commemorative magazine.

The Buildings

Among the residents of Jalan Kampong Cina, the road is unofficially divided into 2 sections. The section from Sri Malaysia Hotel down to the bridge is referred to as `phor` and the section from the bridge down to the market is known as `pasat`. `Pasat` is actually a colloquial Hokkian for `pasar` - a Malay for market. On both sides of the Road are about 200 double and single storey buildings, some are fully concrete and some semi-concrete.  The floors of top storeu were made of wooden planks, not like the modern 2 stories buildings. I suppose some of these brick buildings are easily more that 200 years old, and must have been built by builders from China as roofing tiles and patterns of the roofs suggest. Some of the roofs had been replaced by modern roofing sheets, as the broken tiles could not be replaced. (The single storey buildings have zinc roofs)

Some of the pillars of the top stories have beautiful carvings too.  In the old days, those rich had a peculiar way of building houses. If they had big plot of land, they would built 1 big house in the centre and a small house, one on each side (Nos. 31, 33 & 35). But certain houses could be very illusive when you look at them from the front view, the 2 small houses which flank the big one in the centre are about 15 feet long only. Their back portions are part of the main big house. One of such houses is No. 86,  which have a big relief of Chinese character `TECK SOON` flank by 2 lions standing on their hind legs holding on to the Chinese characters. The house belonged to a very rich man known by the name of Tou Kay Wee Kim Hee.  Formaly, the front portion of this big house was the same as No. 29 (which I will describe below). It was demolished and renovated for commercial purpose by TAN ENG LEONG.

One particular house which attracts me the most is house No. 29. It retained its originality as it was first built. It is the ancestral house of Dato Wee Beng Kwee, whose father was once the Kapitan China of Chinatown. The 2 pieces main door is 4 ft. wide and 8 ft. high and have Chinese character TECK SOON, each character curved on each piece of the doors. The doors are in the inner wall. On the outer side of this door are 2 pieces partial doors of about 5 ft. high with geometrical patterns arranged from pieces of woods. The main door is flank by 4 ft. high windows, and are about 4 ft. from the ground. The windows are barred to prevent intruders when they are opened. The front of the top floor has balcony with vases-liked blue ceramics arranged with spaces in between to form about 3 feet high partition for it.

One block of 2 houses, Nos. 135 & 137, one occupied by KLINIK LEONG , another by  Syarikat Poh Joo Song had a typical Islamic feature on top, was built by a rich Malay man. The houses are now placed under `Bangunan Wakaf, in the care of `Majlis Agama Islam Dan Adat Melayu` (MAIDAM). As for house Nos. 151 & 153, other than the floral reliefs on the upper half of the 3 ground level pillars, the upper floor pillars are lined with beautiful floral tiles. As far as I can remember, house no. 151 was formally occupied by a Malay businessman dealing in agriculture products. House No. 153 was formally occupied by the family of Professor Chew Teng Beng, a renounced artist. The front part of the house was as that of No. 29, only that the walls below the window were decorated with colourful tiles. When new owner took over the house, that beautiful front portion was demolished and renovated for commercial use. But the 5 foot way of these 2 houses still retained its floral tiles. The 2 houses are now belong to Mr. Tan Kee Koon. He retained the original top portion of the roof of his residence, No. 153, and that of No.151 is renovated for bird nest farming. Beside Jalan kampong Tiong, stands a Taoist Temple – OH ANN KEONG Temple. Before it was raze on the night of 9^th. Day of 1^st. Lunar Month 2010 (22.02.2010), it housed a 200 years plus wooden Image of MAZU – Goddess of the Sea, which was brought by early Hokkien community from Fujian in Southern China. That old temple was built by builders from China, with donations from Hokkien community when they made their settlement in Kampong Cina more than 200 years ago. ( Certain record stated that Chinese traders came here in the 15^th.centuary and established an exquisite Chinese town in the mist of traditional Malay communities.) Donations for restoration for razed temple came from people of all walks of life and organisations of Chinese community. A total of more than 1.5 million Ringgit was collected and the Temple was officially open on 30.12.2011.

 Before the construction of Jalan Kampong Tiong in early 1970`s, there were 2 more houses next to the Temple – one was a Cantonese tailor shop and another `Ah Phong` fried mee seller. Against the wall of “Ah Phong`s” house there were a couple of stalls – one was `Sin Bu`, father of `Bu Wan` of Kg. Tiong coffee stall, selling his famous `ice kachang` and another stall belonged to `Apek Lau`, father of Mr. Lee Leng Seng of JKR, selling hot drinks and other tit-bits popular with children.  

From 1960`s onward, there were few developments which in a small way change the sky line of China Town. All those old and eye-soaring wooden houses were torn down, one by descendent of original owner while 3 others by new owners, and new modern buildings took their places.

(1)      House No. 155 stands on the original site of my auntie`s house, mother of Wee Teng Hong, a run-down house which had no roof in the front `shop` area except the front wall and door. It had a typical interior structure of most old buildings. Once you passed the front `shop` area, there was a rest area, the court-yard has a row of 2 or 3 rooms by its side, then comes the kitchen and dining area. Some had extensions for drying clothing. When my auntie moved to No. 168A, Jalan Lorong Haji Jamil, the house was occupied by `Mali Cheng~, sister of Dato` Chee Peck Kiat. It was later bought by a man from Dungun and the present house was built.

(2)       House No. 155A & 155B are actually standing on a vacant land. At the back of that land near the river, there were a couple of `henghua` families lived there. One of them was the family of lady boss (Ah Choon) of Yong Seng Furniture in Jalan Tok Lam.

(3)       As for the site of house No. 157, (TECK SOO TRADING), there were actually 2 wooden houses there. One was a hainanese barber, the family house of Mr. Foo Chong Aik, an active member of Terengganu Buddhist Association. The other house was a ~chap fun` restaurant which catered for lunch only. The daughter, Yen Fong, married to `Uncle Yeo`, a volunteer cook of Terengganu Buddhist Association.

(4)      The land on which a building which house Tzu Chi Buddhist Organisation originally had 2 wooden houses – one was a hainanese tailor (brother of Cheng Beng of famed Eastern Sports Tailor in Jln. Kampong Dalam) and another was a henghua barber. There is a lane beside it, now known as Green Lane Chinatown (Lorong Mesra Alam Kampong Cina) which led to the back lane, Jalan Lorong Haji Jamil. Behind these 2 wooden houses was the residence of landlord –`Po` Tain Lay, whose grand-daughter (daughter of Choon Tee) married a rich man who built a present concrete building to replace the 2 old wooden houses.

I suppose to preserve all these old architectural beauties which blended with 20^th. century buildings prompted Malaysia Heritage Association to select China Town as one of the `100 most endangered site` and placed under the United Nation`s UNESCO World Monument Watch Programmes in 1997. Annual grants were given to ensure beautification and preservation of pre-Colonial buildings of heritage significant.  I pray the future Authorities will preserve China Town as it is.

The Philanthrophist and Promonent Personnel of China Town

There were 2 philanthropists in my midst, they were Mr. Tay Wee Jin and Mr. Chew Sau Fong.

 Mr. Tay Wee Jin, (a Hokkien), the proprietor of HONG BEE TOBACCO COMPANY, housed at No. 79, Jalan Kampong Cina, a few doors away from my house. He was a very low profile philanthropist. Before the Chinese schools were turned into `national type` and aided financially by the Government, Mr. Tay Wee Jin made financial contributions in the building of wooden classrooms and running of the only Chinese school in Kuala Terengganu, Chung Hwa Wei Sin School, which was located on a piece of land stretching from Jalan Masjid Abidin right up to Jalan Tok Lam. This piece of land was later acquired by the Government and the construction of PAYA BUNGA SQUARE is still going on at this moment, May 2012. He also started the night class for over aged or children who attended English school during the day to learn Chinese at night. He was the Trustee for Chung Hwa Wei Sin School from 1946 until his demise in 1957. EDUCATION was primed in his mind. When he was approached for help to set up Oriental English School, he willingly complied. That School was situated at the junction of Jalan Tok Lam and Jalan Paya Bunga (Jalan Sultan Ismail) the spot where Koperasi Building now stands. (One of the teaching staffs was Mr. Andrew Lim Beng Eng, the husband of Ai Hong of Paris Hair Saloon near the market. Mr. Andrew Lim, from Singapore, was the person who introduced and popularised Ball Room dancing in Kuala Terengganu Town).

Being involved in business with British Companies, (in those days, cigarette were imported from England) Mr Tay Wee Jin, used to have parties for the English men in his cosy residents, at the far end of the main building surrounded by river water. A few English speaking locals were invited to the functions too. The local whom I recognised were Mercantile Bank officer, Chong Kee Pek (grandfather of Mr. Tay Cheng Sim of Maybank) and Dato` Koh Teck Beng of Meng Huat Company. Mr. Tay Wee Jin and a few Hokkien lan advocated in the setting up of Hokkien Huay Kuan in 1940 and was its Chairman for 6 terms from 1940 to 1954. I was told that in 1946, he intended to set up Chinese Chamber Of Commerce in Kuala Terengganu, but I could not obtain its outcome. Mr. Tay was a very nice elderly man. Whenever I encountered him I would politely called him `Ah Kong`. But when he was not in the right mood due to whatever reasons which I did not know, all the `nice` words would shoot out from his mouth, like any typical China man. I would bolt out from his residence.

In 1950`s, Hong Bee was also appointed as the agent for Dutch Lady condensed milk and 2 sale girls were sent to promote the product from door to door. That was the first time the people of the town (sua tean huan) had a sight of sale girls. Hong Bee also owned a cargo steamer named HONG LIAN which sailed between Kuala Terengganu and Singapore. When it sank in Kuantan in 1953 during the storm, it took a great toll on the health of the old man. His health deteriorated and passed away in 1958, one year after the birth of our Nation. Oriental English School, which heavily depended on him financially, sank with him. The whole town mourned his death. His funeral procession was lined with students from Chinese school as well as Oriental English School. I was there too. The Chung Hwa Wei Sin School`s scout troops in full uniforms pulled the heavy wooden hearse with some on each side of the hearse with their 5 feet long scouting poles pointing downward. As I was told that he always turned down the State Awards.

Mr. Chew Sau Fong, (a Kheh lan) of No. 93, Jalan Bandar, was another low profile philanthropist. He also contributed to the well being of Chinese schools during his life time until he passed away in 1982. Even though the Kheh community was very small in Kuala Terengganu, he would willingly contribute to the running of Chinese schools. I was told that he too shy away from the State Awards. He was s cloth importer, whole seller and retailer. His shop was next door to my father`s shop. One day, a group of trishaw peddlers and a few well dressed Malay men came to his shop to have a group photograph taken with him. I was told that he used to donate to the Trishaw Association for the welfares of members` children educations. Save for the show of gratitude by Trishaw Association, his many good deeds were known to himself and his family only. There is nothing much I can write about Mr. Chew`s profile, as his only son do not know or unwilling to talk about it.

 These are the men we should appreciate and honour. Their contribution benefitted all section of Chinese community regardless of their dialects and clans. I am proud to be in their neighbourhood.

There were 2 more prominent persons in Jalan Kampong Cina, though not in my neighbourhood. They stayed at the `phor` area not very far from the bridge – they were the late Y. BHG. DATO` SERI DEWA BAKTI DATO` SERI  TOH CHWEE BIOW and the late  Y. BHG. DATO TAN ENG ANN .

Y. BHG. DATO` SERI DEWA BAKTI DATO` SERI TOH CHWEE BIOW SSMT, SPMT, KMN, JP, PJK. He was a great philanthropist and social worker who reserved a mention here.. He was an entrepreneur with 11 companies under his management. His company`s trade name is CHIN GUAN INDUSTRIES (M) SDN. BHD, which dealt in rice and Nestle products. He also had interest in rubber plantations and petrol (CALTEX) service station.

Dato` Seri was born in China in 1915. The youngest of 3 boys and 3 girls, and were brought up single handedly by his widowed mother. Lives were tough for them, and Sino-Japanese War in 1932 made the conditions worst. Together with his mother, married brother, they decided to migrate to Terengganu, as one of his sister and her family were here earlier. He was then 17 years old and works were hard to come by. He did odd jobs works and later landed himself as an account clerk, and worked with low pay and also at the mercy of his employer.  With his savings, he started a business, Chop Keng Lee, with his brother, selling cigarette imported from a Singapore company. Immediately after the War his brother died. Dato` Seri, being a dutiful and responsible brother,  took care of his widowed sister-in-law and her children.

After experiencing and tasting the bitterness of hardship when he was small, he developed compassions towards the unfortunates. Though successful, he was humble and approachable by everybody who needs his help. He held the posts of patron, president, chairman, treasurer and committee member of 21 social and welfare organisations. In recognition of his unselfish and caring service to the leprosy patients, Dato` Seri was presented with the Certificate of Distinguished Service Award by Malaysian Leprosy Relief Association. In his younger days, he was the chairman of Malaysian Chinese Association (MCA) and treasurer of Parti Perikatan (forerunner of Barisan Nasional). In 1955, when he was the Chairman of Hokkien Association, he was instrumental in getting the Associations from other States to come together and form the Federation Of Hokkien Association of Malaysia. He also had interest in Chinese schools and contributed financially in the running of the Chung Hwa Wei Sin Primary School. With his influence and connection with VVIP, he was able to acquired land from the Government for the expansion of the Chung Hwa Wei Sin Primary School compound. His other social activities included seeing the well being of Old Folks Home in Bukit Payong.  His contributions to societies were not without notice. From the age of 40 to 80, Dato` Seri was bestowed with 8 awards by His Royal Highness The Sultan of Terengganu and one by Yang Dipertuan Agong of Malaysia. He came to rest permanently at the age of 81 in 1996. His business is taken over by his eldest son,  Mr. Toh Hock Chin,  ASM, SMT, JP, PJK.

DATUK TAN ENG ANN DPMT, AMN, JP, PJK. He was born in 1918 to a family of status which owned rubber plantation and fruit orchards in Padang Midin area. He was the third child among the 6 children (4 boys and 2 girls) of Mr. Tan Soon Hock and Mdm. Teo Sin Tor. After his early education in Chung Hwa Wei Sin Chinese School, he went to Chung Ling High School in Penang and later to Anglo Chinese School in Singapore. He became the local Chinese School teacher for 3 years before he resigned to start his own business. Being green, he went through varieties of business ventures; became a dealer/agent to host of products ranging from toiletries (Colgate Palmolive), soft drink (Green Spot) outboard motor and diesel marine engines for fishing boats, Japanese sewing machine (Chiyoda & Linda) to motor vehicle (Mercedes Benz)

In 1960, the company which was set up by him, SYARIKAT TAN ENG ANN SDN. BHD, was appointed agent  for HONDA motor cycle. Unlike Western motor bikes, such as Norton or BSA, which had high engine capacities suitable for well-built European physics, those Honda motor bikes had low engine capacities and also cheap making them affordable to everybody and convenience for town use. That spells the end of bicycles for daily use. Having confidence in him, in 1975 the HONDA Motor appointed his Company as a dealer for HONDA cars. His shop was about 50 metres from the bridge. In 1983, when a row of wooden shop houses was razed, his shop was affected too. To start anew, he moved his business to the present premise in Jalan Sultan Mohamad. He moulded his eldest son Teng Chiow and third son, Teng Hoon to take care of his business. His second son has a business of his own in Kuantan and the youngest son, Teng Kiat, when retired from civil servant, took charge of the Company`s car service centre. Dato` Tan Eng Ann married to Toh Puan Lim Geok Kwee in about 1942 and the couple was rewarded with 4 sons and a girl. He passed away in 1990, and his closely knitted and filial sons took over his legacy.

During his time, he was active in politics and social works. He was the president of MCA and was the 2 terms elected State Assemblyman for DUN Bandar from 1959 to 1969 and also an EXCO member for the same period. He was the 4 terms president of Terengganu Hokkien Association from 1979 to 1987. He was the chairman of the board of governors for Chung Hwa Wei Sin Secondary School and the one of the trustees for the Primary School.  He was once the president of Terengganu Buddhist Association. He was a very keen sportsman and served  as one of the committee members of Terengganu Football Association. In his hail day, he was the state singles tennis champion and together with his younger brother, Tan Eng Chuan, captured the state doubles tennis championship. In 1969, he was awarded the Darjah Kebesaran Dato` Paduka Mahkota Terengganu (D.P.M.T) which carries the title DATO`, by His Royal Highness Sultan of Terengganu.

THE PROFESSIONAL OF JALAN KAMPONG CINA

I think my memoirs will not be completed without including a successful China Town boy, who is still with us, whom we can be proud of. He was born, raised, having his educations up to professional levels while residing in Jalan Kampong China. I am referring to Y. Bhg. Dato` Wee Cheng Huat.

Y, BHG. DATO` WEE CHENG HUAT DPMT, JP, AMN, PJK

Dato` Wee was born in late 1937. His loving mother passed away when he was in his infancy and became an orphan at the age of 6 when his caring father passed away, in 1943, during the Japanese Occupation. He was brought up by his maternal grandmother, Mdm. Chew Bee Pang, fondly known as Mar Ling (grandmother Ling in Hokkien), at the majestic building which is now occupied by Capitol Electric. Fate had not been good to him, but he grew up to be a very obedient, hard working and determined (chai see) boy – those driving qualities in him had made him a successful man. The grandmother passed away after seeing her loving grandson through his education and became a successful man.

He was educated at Sultan Sulaiman English School (the present site of SSPS in Jalan Sultan Omar). It was then a wooden building with 3 ft. High wall and atap (palm leaves) roof. The School was later razed to the ground. He completed his Senior Cambridge in 1955. In those days, at the age of 7 or 8, children started Primary standard for 2 years and proceed to Standard 1 and got promoted every year to Standard 9 (if one was successful in the class examinations every year) before sitting for Senior Cambridge Examination. The country, then under British rule, was lack of teaching staffs; the bright and outstanding Senior Cambridge Certificate holders were selected to be trained as teachers in England. Being a bright boy, he could have gained entry into University Malaya in Singapore for professional course. But the lure of going to England was too great to resist. He opted for the teaching  post and was sent to Brindsford Lodge from 1956 to 1958. In 1959, he was posted to Sultan Sulaiman Secondary School in Batu Buruk (now Jalan Sultan Mahmud).

Among the few Kampong Cina boys (Lim Peng Hwee, Lee Mar Chow, Chua Boon Hock, Lau Kong Bin) who did their teaching course in England, Dato` Wee is the only one, who, after completing his 5 years teaching contract, went back to England in 1964 to take up legal studies at Middle Temple, London, and was called to English Bar in 1967. He started his own practice on 1^st. June, 1968 at No. 152, Jalan  Kampong Cina (now the new building of Perniagaan Chong Wong) and moved to present office in Jalan Sultan Ismail in 1978.

During his school days, Dato` Wee was active in sports. He was the School rugby player. In 1955, he was the State singles badminton champ and partnered his cousin, the late Dr. Wee Lian Hong to capture the doubles championship. He was one of the founding members of Trengganu Buddhist Youth Circle under the guardianship of Sultan Sulaiman Secondary School teacher, Mr. Piyasena. Religious talks used to be held in one of the Primary School class rooms during the week-ends until one nice and jovial `Lau Chan` donated an old palace in Kolam area for Buddhist Youth Circle`s activities. Dato` Wee is the legal adviser to many organisations, some of which are Kuala Terengganu Kuan Tung Association, Kin Cho Hong (Contractors` Ass.), Chinese Assembly Hall Kuala Terengganu, Terengganu Buddhist Association, Sam Poh Kong Temple, Young Malaysian Movement (YMM) and Pertubohan Perkuburan Cina Terengganu. Dato` is the current President of Terengganu Hokkien Association. He also held the post from 1987 to 1993, and again from 1995 to 2001. Since its formation in 1940, so far among the past 9 presidents, he is the only non-Chinese educated president of the Association. Dato` Wee is a man of principle and whatever he does are for the benefits of the mass. Sometimes that does not go down well with certain individuals who had agendas of their own.

Dato` Wee married to his childhood sweet heart, Toh Puan Tan Wah Choo in 1959 and has 2 daughters and a son. The eldest daughter followed Dato` Wee`s footstep and also graduated from Middle Temple, London. She was practising with a legal firm for a few years before taking up a post as one of the legal personnel in a German multi-national conglomerate company – SIEMENS. The second daughter has a degree in Industrial Management and a MBA. She is now working in America. The son is working with a company in Kuala Lumpur.

For his services to societies, he was awarded Darjah Dato` Paduka Mahkota Terengganu which carries the title `Dato`, Ahli Mangku Negera (AMN), Pingat Jasa Kebaktian (PJK) and also made a Justice of Peace (JP) in 1970`s and 1980`s.

MR GAN YEOW CHEW AMN, PJK

Another person whom I think I should include in my memoirs is Mr. Gan Yeow Chew.

Nr. Gan Yeow Chew was born in 1928 to Mr. Gan Lian Chong and Mdm Lim Kuan Cheng. He is the youngest and only son among their 5 children. His early education was at Chung Hwa Wei Sin School, but was interrupted during the Japanese Occupation. After the War, he continued his study in The Grammar School and is the private English School ran by MR. Isaac (later Dato`). The School then was at the present site of Politeknik Kuala Terengganu, (opposite Emporium Hock Kee Seng) in Jalan Sultan Ismail. It had a big compound and 2 or 3 wooden buildings to house the classrooms. After about 2 years there, he gained entry into the Government`s Sultan Sulaiman English School, which was located at the present site of Sultan Sulaiman Primary School (SSPS), in Jalan Sultan Omar. He completed his Senior Cambridge and was a temporary teacher at SSPS for 2 years before decided to participate in the family business, CHOP LEE HONG, No. 73, Jalan Kampong Cina. Business then dealt in varieties of unrelated merchandise, such as fishing materials, colouring dye, `tegenak(?)` -  a palm leaves cone-shaped hat worn by farmers and fishermen, 4 ft. square brown/white paper and pieces of yeast, and few other things.

In 1955, Mr. Gan Yeow Chew started a family life with Mdm Chan Peck Ngor who stayed a few doors down the road. Mrs. Gan began her teaching career in 1954 in Chung Hwa Wei Sin Primary School as music teacher and retired in 1985. She has a jovial and positive smiles, well like by her pupils and all those who ever crossed her path. Mrs. Gan is a very sporting person and is very popular too. Whenever she attended any dinner functions which have karaoke music, you can hear shouting from the crowd, `Lau ser, Lau ser`. With her sweet voice, she would obligingly sing a couple of songs to the thunderous applause from the floor.

The couple has 2 daughters and a son. The eldest daughter is a piano teacher and followed her engineer husband to Malacca. The second daughter graduated from a university in New Zealand, majoring in Business Administration and Human Resource. She is working with a Japanese company in Singapore. His youngest, a son, took over his business and is concentrating on fishing materials and game fishing equipments.

Mr. & Mrs. Gan, like his parents and sisters tolerate no non-sense and do not indulge in gossiping. They are sincere and trust-worthy couple, whom you can rely upon. Mr. Gan is a man of few words and low profile. His abilities and dedication in societies did not go un-noticed. In Hokkien Huay Kuan, he is appointed as Honorary Adviser and one of the Members of Trustees for properties. In Terengganu Buddhist Association, he also holds these 2 posts.

For his services to societies, he was awarded `Ahli Mangku Negera (AMN)` and also `Pingat Jasa Kebaktian` (PJK).

My Childhood Period (pt. 2)

During the care-free days of my pre-teen years (7 – 12 years old), educations were not that competitive, there was no compulsory tuition class, no after school activities, except during the sport`s day seasons, no tension. After school, when the tide was high, we would be in the river, which is behind our house, The water in those days were crystal clear, not polluted by present days` motor boats, except during the monsoon when the river water became yellowish and rough. Unfortunately, I did not enjoy much of care-free time, as one of my parents or sister would yell at me to come up from the river to help man my parents` shop.

When it was low tide in the evening, the riverbed near the bridge became our play ground. It was sandy, unlike today. The bigger boys, especially Mr. Chua Boon Hock and his brother, Boon Seng, and the younger brother of  Mr. Seah Siew Beng, that is, Siew Leng, (sons of `Po`Lian Por) the tough guy, would organise games and sporting activities, such as cricket game (our version), high jump, long jump and running. The Chua brothers became teachers, the profession which suit them best, because of their organising and leadership qualities and abilities. Mr Seah Siew Leng, was in the uniform service, which suited him well because of his built.

 Those children from `ua sua` (literally means near the land side, referring to people from across the street; those who stay along the river side, like ours, are known as from `ua hai`}, who wanted to swim had to come to the pier, dropped their clothing down to the underwears, some were naked, jumped into the river and enjoyed themselves. Another 2 spots where they used to go for the deeps were `hai kuan phor`, where Sri Malaysia Hotel is, and another place was `sua pek` where Pasar Kedai Payang is now standing. Sometimes, without the knowledge of my parents, I used to join the clique at `hai kuan phor`. There was one small size, agile and mischievous boy whom we called `lau kau` (old monkey), the brother of `Ah Thong`- the `kuateow` soap seller in Kampong Tiong. This mischievous `lau kau` used to dive down and pulled our home-made underwears off while we were swimming and threw them away. Though mischievous, he was our protector. If anybody were to disturb us, he would be there to fight them off. The last time I met him, a few years back, he told me he is now staying in Singapore.

There were no electronic games, no computers and no televisions for us to while away our times. We had our own seasonal games, like playing marbles, rubber bands, 20 sticks cigarette boxes of different brands ( 555, Players-showing picture of saluting navy and few  other brands), flying kites and `buah lepek`- brownish seeds of a type of trees found growing by the up-stream river bank. These seeds could only be found among the debris wash ashore during the monsoon time. We played these games at `Kheam Keong Lorong`( now World Heritage Lane, Chinatown (Lorong Warisan Dunia, Kg. Cina) ) which is between Chop Lee Hong and L.K.Keong and  the one opposite it is `Ah Wah’s Lorong` ( now Tau Kay Wee Sin Hee Lane (Lorong Tau Kay Wee Sin Hee) ) and we were always chased away because of the noise we made. Another lane where we used to have our childhood games was at the `Yew Yong Lorong`. Actually the name referred to Mr. Wee Yew Yong, father of Wee Seng Beng /Wee Kim Kim, who stayed 2 doors away from this lane; the house is now rented to POH ANN Chinese medicine shop. The lane is now known as Lorong Kenangan Payang Kg. Cina ( Payang Memory Lane Chinatown ).  At the far end of this lane were wooden public toilets on stilts. I do not know whether those toilets were for fish mongers of the old market or for villagers of Kampong Jamil, across the street, who used to come through the lane beside CHOP SWEE GUAN, with a `timba` full of water. A `timba` is a specially made zinc bucket for drawing water from the well. The leader of our group at this lane was the late Wee Seng Lim. We used to gamble with poker cards, mind you, we played with real money but the stakes were small, 5 cents or 10 cents only. Mostly, we played `sam kee pai`. One day while we were enjoying our game, a policeman rushed in, we ran away leaving the money behind. Some of the boys jumped into the river, I hid inside the toilet. In fact that policeman was more interested in our money than arresting us. He confiscated the money on the ground and went off, making him a few dollars richer. I still can recalled the 2 brothers who used to play with us, one was nickname `Haw` (tiger) and the younger brother was `par` (leopard) who are the nephews of  late Mor Cheng Kiat of police force. They stayed with their grandparents next to Chop Swee Guan. They later moved back to Singapore with their parents when the old couple passed away.

Talking of `Kheam Keong`s Lorong (now World Heritage Lane), I think of `San Kau`(skinny monkey), the son of `Ah Phong`, the fried mee seller. In the afternoon, this Ah Phong would push his cart from his house next to Ho Ann Keong temple and anchored by the road side in-front of this Lorong. His son, San Kau, rain or shine, would never wear shirt safe for a dirty short which slipped down below his `chor chai` (navel). From his appearance, his mother must have passed away when he was very small and not properly taken care of. When he was old enough, he had to follow his father and acted some sort of an assistant He would sometimes help to put the order (mee, kuateow or beehoon) together with pieces of pork on the plates for his father to fry. His unwashed body and hands with long dirty fingers nails added flavour to the fried. The customers across Ah Hwa Kopitiam  by the side of Lorong Tau Kay Wee Sin Hee, and those around there could not resist the smell of the fried, gave Ah Phong the business and did not bother about the look of San Kau. This San Kau, being a boy of our age, could not resist straying away from his duty to join us for the games. His father, Ah Phong, would come with bundle of chopsticks and hit him on the head. He would obediently go back to his chore. Though he had to help his father and deprived of his childhood funs, he was always jovial and every now and then he would bust out singing popular Chinese songs of the days (every word properly pronounced correctly, even though he had never been to school). Sometimes, in the middle of the nights, he would walk the street of Kampong Cina serenading. When his father passed away, his sister-in-law took over the business at their house next to the Temple. He told me that he was never paid for the job, he ate whatever was available. When his house was torn down in mid 1970`s to make way for Jalan Kampong Tiong, his sister-in-law moved her business to a stall in the glutton square in `Hai Kuan Por` area. Later his sickly sister-in-law retired from business, `San Kau` was left Jobless. With an old tricycle carrier, he went around looking for old recyclable goods for sale until he was knocked down by a drunk `Christian` driver. He was never fully recover and became limp and was unable to work. A lot of people showed sympathy for him and passed him a couple of bucks whenever they saw him and sometimes pay for his meals. He was never a smoker .Whatever he had, he spent it on meals. Once, he told me his age which is 2 years my senior. This poor `san kau`, lead a challenging life from small to old age. The last time I saw him was during 2010 Chinese New Year at the Ho Ann Keong Temple. I supposed he must had been sent to old folks home.

 During the monsoon seasons we had funs too, especially at night. When the tide came in during early part of night, the waves were so strong that when they rush in under our house and smashed against the wall of the road, water would splash up onto the road and also our 5-foot way. Sometimes, the passersby were caught unaware and got drench. Sometimes a few of us would run down the whole stretch of 5-foot way when we heard the waves rushed in. Those who got wet the most were the looser. Whether win or loss, most of the times, I would get whacking from my mother or father.  Waves also filled up the 4 feet wide drain in front of present Mr.Teo Hwee Kiat`s shop, with river sand. We had great funs building sand castles, or volcanoes. That was when I was below 7 years old and my parents would not allow me to wonder too far away. Those were the good old days of my time. Once the hydro-electric dam was built in Kuala Berang, the river was as tame even during the monsoon time as any other time. Now, the river near the estuary is made narrower and deeper for the annual Monsoon Cup.

During that time, I used to go in and out of HONG BEE TOBACCO COMPANY, No. 79, Jalan Kampong Cina, which was a few doors away from my house, to visit a couple of maternal grandchildren (gua soon) of its proprietor, Mr. Tay Wee Jin. The sons of his eldest daughter were nick name as such, Ah Wan, Or Ee, Pek Ee, Ang Ee and the youngest, the same age as myself, Ah Wan Kia; and also  one of the son of his 2^nd. daughter, Ah Beng.. The whole of these `gua soon` later went to Singapore to seek their fortunes except for Or Ee, who was the most studious of the lot. He later married the daughter of Teo Lian Hin, who was famed for his durian cake. When Mr. Tay Wee Jin passed away in 1957, his only son from his second marriage, Mr.Tay Jr., took care of the HONG BEE TOBACCO COMPANY as a minority partner. The majority partner was Teck Siang Company which later moved the COMPANY from No. 79 to its own building in front of the Store Supermarket. By that time, all brands of cigarette were locally produced. With the enforcement of government New Economy Policy in Terengganu, the tobacco companies withdrawn their agencies from non-bumis and gave the agencies to Bumiputra companies. Mr. Tay Jr. who married the daughter of a motor shop owner later moved to Kuantan to start anew. Lately, I was told that he has moved to Kuala Lumpur and retired there. I used to play with him and borrowed his bicycle when we were small; he is a few years my junior.

Another boy whom I used to play with was Wee Ann Jin who is 1 or 2 years my junior. He was rather a timid type and the eyes easily became red. We became closer when my cousin, Geok Sian moved into his (Ann Jin) ancestral house at No. 81, We used to attend matinee show at Capitol theatre. He is married to a nurse and now migrated to Australia.

My Childhood Period (pt.1)

I was born in 1942, during Japanese Occupation, at No. 49, Jalan Kedai Payang  which,  in late 1950`s, was changed to No. 91, Jalan Kampong Cina, to the family of small time businessman. Jalan Kampong Cina is on the southern side of Sungai Terengganu estuary. On the northern side of the Terengganu River is Kampong Seberang Takir, a Malay fishing village. Among a row of 8 wooden houses by the river side, our house was the last one from the bridge. The first 3 houses near the bridge were single storey, and the last 5 were double storey ( Notice why I use past tense referring to the  houses, as they were demolished by the Authority in late 2009 ) The first 3 single storey houses were supported by stilts of `nibong` stems ( a type of palm trees ) over the river bed. As for the double storey houses, the main front potions of about 30 feet long were supported by 3 feet wide concrete stilts. The extended back potions were supported by `nibong` stems. Those `nibong` stems had to be replaced every now and then, as their long submerged in water cause them to rot. When it became difficult to harvest the `nibong` stems, a concrete stilts of 1 ft wide were used instead.

 In fact there was a shanty small single storey house built side-by-side to the first house. It was a cobbler shop fondly known as house of `tauhua`. This `tauhua` family later moved to the upper part of the road and  later gave up its cobbler business and involved in picture frame and glass business – PERNIAGAAN CHONG WONG, which progress and now  has 2 shops. The house which they first moved in was a small shop on the `ua sua` side of the road. There were 2 houses adjacent to it, one occupied by `yee` Un Lee (mother of Teo Tee Kee) and  the next door was that of her relative, Chua Ban Hock`s crockery shop. Perniagaan Chong Wong, No. 152, Jln. Kampong Cina, bought the whole 3 shops and converted them into a single shop. ~tauhua`s` other shop is on the `ua hai` just nearby.

 By the side of this shanty house of `tauhua` was a 6 foot wide wooden pier extender 30 feet downward to about 2 feet above the river bed. I do not remember the main purpose of this pier. I suppose it must be a landing place for villagers, across the river, who took  boat ride to come to town. Anyway during certain time of the year when a type of shell dish, `gepor` was in season, the women folks around my area, including Soh Geok Chin, her sister Geok Chuan, my cousin Geok Sian, my mother, sometimes I followed and few more Hokkien ladies would come to this pier to get a boat to Pulau Duyong to sock in waste deep water searching for ~gepor` with feet and hands. The `cari gepor` was more for fun. `Gepor` are very tasty with `mee sua` soup or fry. Now a day, ladies are more preoccupied with TV series.

There was a concrete bridge, 24 ft. long and 24 ft. wide, which is still standing by the side of the pier. The bridge is said to be over 100 years old. There are beautiful floral reliefs on its concrete railings. The middle of the bridge is supported by thick wall-liked pillar built across the bridge from river bed thus partition the flow of water into two half. The bridge is roughly mid-way along Jalan Kampong Cina. It acts as a divider between the `phor` section and the `pasat` section of Chinatown.

In those days, road between the northern state and Kuala Terengganu was very bad and there were  no bridges across Sungai  Jertih and Sungai  Terengganu and also no bridge spinning across Sungai Golok  connecting Thailand to Malaya. Rice consumed by people of Kuala Terengganu town, had to be brought from Thailand by Chinese junks which berthed in the mid river. The `tongkang` was use to transfer sacks of rice to the private pier of rich importers. The private pier was actually an extension of the back portion of the house with strong wooden staircase leading down to the river bed. One of such rice importer was Chop Thye Seng which was 3 doors away from my father`s                house. The timing had to be right, ie .only when it was high tide, so that `tongkang` could come close to the pier. The `tongkang` was usually manned by 2 persons, one on each side of the `tongkang`, who would alternately moved to the front of the `tongkang` with a long bamboo poles stick down to the river bed. As the` tongkang` man moved towards the end of the boat, the `tongkang` would be propelled forward. The 2 man would take turn to do it. The `kuli` would carry sacks of rice on their bare backs to the importer`s warehouse, which was actually the same dwelling house.

There were no roads linking Kuala Terengganu Town to Singapore. Coastal steamers were the mean of transports. Such steamers which I used to hear the names of were Lawang and Hong Ho. Those steamers carried cargoes as well as passengers and were owned by Singapore companies. When the coastal road, Mersing Highway, was opened in late 1950`s or early 1960`s, land transportations, lorries, were used to carry cargoes. I was told that steamers Lawang and Hong Ho had to divert to carry passengers and cargoes between Singapore and nearby Indonesian Islands. During that period there was no bus service to Singapore yet. There sprout up a few illegal taxis services (plebet sapu) to carry locals to-and-flo from Singapore. The locals whom they carried were those known to them. I still remember their regular customers were `po` Bee Chuan or her daughter, Geok Puay whose shop was at No. 60 and is now selling gold ornaments by different person; they were like my maternal grandmother who frequent to Singapore to buy `Batik Jawa` for sale. Going to Singapore in those days did not require `International Passport. The young Chinese men who ran that `plebet sapu` activities were `Selar Puchat` whose wife had a lady dress making business at Jalan Masjid Abidin near the Mosque, another one was `Pin Po`, son-in-law of `Pek Chu` Lim Hong Ka, whose daughter has a flower and gift shop in Kampong Tiong Flats; and another one was `Ah Ngah`, son of Ah Pak pork seller, next to Capitol Electric. In 1970`s when Transnasional introduced direct bus service to Singapore, all those `plebet sapu` went out of business.