Commercial Hubs

Jalan Kampong China was the commercial hubs of the Town before  Jalan Banggol and Jalan Paya Bunga (now Sultan Ismail) were developed in early 1960`s for commercial use. From the bridge down to the market, `pasat` section, was the textile and daily used products area. During the Holy Month of Ramadhan, when the dry market in Tanjong which opened only during day time, after Isyak we can see sea of people converged to this small section of China Town to do their shopping until midnights. At any other time, it was normal to see shops in this sections of China Town closed at 9 – 10pm. In 1960`s, shops began to come up in Jalan Banggol and Jalan Sultan Ismail, and the opening of a couple of shopping complex, the `pasat` section of Jalan Kampong Cina became a dead town, by 6 in the evening, all shops were already closed  except for a couple of `batik` sellers.

From the bridge up to the `phor` section, was the provisions and pork selling area Only local `Kampong` fowls were available then. So eating chickens was a rare occasion, only during festive seasons or special occasion like `chor kee` (prayer in remembrance to the ancestral deaths). Commercial broiler chickens only appeared in the markets in mid 1960`s. There were 3 Chinese medicine shops which had already close down.. Before the timber booms of 1970`s, that section of Jalan Kampong Cina was very quiet. As for breakfast, there was not much choice. Other than a couple of coffee shops,  there were 2 shops selling `chok` - chicken or pork porridge and one street stall at the Teck Beng Lorong selling `Bakutteh`. During the timber boons of 1970`s, there was an influx of outsiders to Kuala Terengganu. More `bakuteh` shops were open and `mee` soup stalls opened in the existing coffee shops too.

Before 1980`s, there was a glutton square at the `hai kuan phor`, it was on the spot where the end section of Sri Malaysia Hotel is. The square had 2 rows of stalls, total about 12 in number, mostly occupied by Malay food sellers. There were 2 Chinese food stalls at the far end, one an economic food (chap fun) stall and the other a fry mee stall. The middle part of the Hotel was the taxi stands and the parking section of the Hotel was the SHELL petrol/service station – owned by Teck Siang. Those stall owners in that glutton square moved to Kampong Tiong glutton square when it opened in 1982. 

Timber booms did not last very long and the China Town seem to be stagnant until in late 1970`s or early 1980`s, one young man, MR. YAP CHUAN BIN, had a vision to develop Redang Island into tourist playground, because of its scenic  beauties and rich marine habitats for snorkel divers.  He started by setting up camps and organised trips to the Island. News spread of the beauties of the Island and his promotions spread to the West Coast. Later, he set up a partnership with a very rich friend and a contact from West Coast to build a Resort. The business was thriving and soon others followed suit and the whole Island was mushroom with resorts. Since then, from the month of March to October, every week-end and school holidays, early in the mornings, busses load of tourists arrived  in `phor` section of China Town, giving a rousing business to the morning stalls of Kampong Tiong glutton square, before taking a ferry or boat rides to the Island. Some of them in their shorts and inner clothing ready to deep in the crystal clear warm water of Redang Island.

After more than 25 years of going to the Island, Mr. Yap decided to call it a day and passed his resort to his partners and acts as agent and promoter for the Resorts in the Redang Island through his Malaysian and overseas contacts. All the resorts` owners as well as morning food stalls in Jalan Kampong Cina, near the arch, owe him the dues. The Terengganu State Tourism should give Mr. Yap Chuan Bin the credits for spearheading the only industry the State can offer ( other than man-made Kenyir hydro electric dam lake which is only good for anglers, and Sekayu waterfall, only locals go there) The Redang Island generates a lot of revenues for the resort owners and also improved the economy and well-being of all sectors of  Kuala Terengganu folks – from the grocery shops, chicken sellers, vegetable sellers, souvenirs shops  down to fish crackers sellers of Pasar Kedai Payang. But the most important of all is that Mr. Yap has directly or indirectly helped to improve the livelihood of fishing folks of Redang Island. His liaisons with Marine Park personals to conserve this Natural Underwater Heritage make him a role model for others resort owners to follow.  Once this Heritage is destroyed, that would be the end of tourism in Kuala Terengganu.

Many articles had been written about Chinese community of China Town, some dated as far back as 15^th. Century. They came mostly as traders from Fujian in Southern China. Some ventured up the Terengganu and settled in Kampong Tirok and across the river in Kampong Pulau Bahagia (formerly Kg. Pulau Babi}.  Up the Terengganu River tributary, Sungai Nerus, is the famous Sam Poh Kong Temple. It is said that the Temple was built in memory of the spot where Admiral Cheng Ho landed. To the Hokkien, the place is popularly known as `Sam Poh Kan` (Sam Poh River). In the days gone by, the `Peranakan` Hokkien devotees from China Town used to travel up by boats to pay homage there. Now the place is accessible by road.

The Hokkien of China Town, Kampong Tirok, Kampong Pulau Bahagia and Batu Nam(6),whose ancesters were here 2 or 3 centuries ago are so well assimilated with the locals that their features and ways of life are akin to that of the Malays. The old generations Hokkien are more comfortable in `sarong`. To them, the food would taste better if taken with `gulai ikan`, sambal belacan` or budu`. Even their dialect has trace of Malay words in them. They could be termed as `PERANAKAN` of Kuala Terengganu. They are involved in trading.

According to the records, after 1900, more Hokkien of Chin Chiang clan came to Kuala Terengganu. Their ways of life are entirely different from those of `peranakan`. When I was small, they were normally referred to as `TEAN SUA LAN` (China people), older generation were `TEAN SUA APEK` (China uncle) and `TEAN SUA ACHIM` (China auntie). They are involved in sundry shops.

There were a few of them whom I can remember. Klinik Leong was the original sundry shop of `TUA TIAW PEK`. The shop closed down when the old man passed away. Later the wife and his 2 sons moved to west coast. Another one was `GOH CHIN SENG` whose shop, near the market, was one of the row of houses demolished to make way for the multi-stories car park. The 2 children are still around in town. The shop where the Phua Brothers Household Products is, was formerly that of HENG LEE CHAN which dealt in local salted fish and exported to Singapore. One of the children of its employee, Tan Kian Chai, who stayed next to the house of Mdm. Tan Kim Eng`s (roti paun) paternal grand-parents, was Public Works Department`s mechanic. I do not know where the family moved to. House No. 27, Jalan Kampong Cina, by the side of entrance to Pasar Kedai Payang was that of HENG SOON CHAN, a grocery shop selling all imported food stuffs, such as frozen bacon, ham, chicken and imported eggs from Australia and many others, catering for the needs of European customers. The father of Mr. Lee Mar Choy, `Pek Chai` (also of Chin Chiang clan), was the manager there. Prior to 1960`s, there were no layer or broiler farms in Terengganu (I do not know about other States}. When I was less than 10 years old, once in a while, my mother asked my late 2<sup>nd</sup>. sister and myself to buy frozen chicken or imported eggs from the shop. On our way home, I would proudly tell those whom we encountered, `o chew kay` or `o chew nuar`. The descendent of great philanthropist, Mr. Tay Wee Jin, of HONG BEE TOBACCO, did not carry on with the trade, because of Government policy. The descendents of Chin Chiang clan of Jalan Kampong Cina, who are still in business are that of Y>Bhg. Dato` Seri Dato` Toh Chwee Biow of Chin Guan INDUSTRY, CHEE SENG sundry shop, KIAN SENG sundry shop and SIN CHUAN HONG hardware shop.