Monday, June 18, 2012

The Markets

Before Merdeka, at the end of Jalan Kedai Payang (Kg. Cina) ,  stood a  wooden wet market with only roof over it. The market operated from afternoon onward when the fishermen brought their catch home in their `payang` fishing boats. In those days, there were no modern motorised fishing boats. About 20 feet long `payang` boats, each with 10 – 12 fishermen in it. Each half of the fishermen were on each side of the boat. Before the break of dawn, we, people from `ua hai` could hear those fishermen row their boats in unison when their rowing bows hit against the sides of their `payang` boats. By noon, they would be back with their catch. The wet market was actually situated at the edge of open land called `sua pek` (white sand) which was by the estuary of Terengganu River. This `sua pek` was the playing ground for children from `pasat`. Maybe before the erection of the wet market, the fishermen would sell their catch from their `payang` boats by the river side. That was how the place is called Kedai Payang. By the side of this wet market, on the main road of Kedai Payang, stood 2 units of 2 stories concrete buildings, one belonged to prominent Teochew businessman whose grocery shop was called YONG HWA; another one belonged to relative of Y>BHG. DATO` TEO ENG JOO. The floor levers of those 2 building were about 3 feet higher than the road. Then there was a row of about 11 two stories brick buildings. Two prominent politicians were among the residents of those houses – one was a Town Councillor, the late MR. GAN CHONG  BIN, the father of Miss Annie Gan of MCA; another one was the owner of CHIN HIN bicycle shop,  who was one of the founding members of the now defunct Kuala Terengganu`s branch PARTY NEGERA. There were also a coffee shop with Malay lady `pelayan`, a tailor shop, KWONG LEE goldsmith and also 2 or 3 Indian muslim spices shops, a departmental shop and a grocery shop of Mr. Goh Seng Huat. In late 1970`s or early 1980`s, these whole row of houses were demolished by the Authority to make way for multi-stories car part for the Central Market

The dry market was situated in Tanjong area on the site where Astaka Supermarket now stand. The dry market opened in the morning only, by noon there were not much activities. There were varieties of local delicacies and food, such as `nasi dagang` for breakfast. It was here that local vegetables produced by villagers were sold, they were mostly `kangkong, sawi, long beans, reddish and bean sprout. The people from Kampong Cina did not come to this dry market to get their greens. They got their greens from a few small scale vegetable growers from `aboi kubon` which is near Kampong Tiong area now. The wives would sell their produces from door to door in Kampong Cina.  I knew of 2 vegetable growers who double their incomes by selling other food stuffs. One was `Aman` who was famous for his `seo kai` (roasted chicken). He would place his `seo kai` on a 2` x 3` wooden `plat-form` together with his chopping board, knife and sauce and balanced on his head, going down the road, before noon, shouting `seo kai, seo kai`. With 50c you can buy a small portion. In the afternoon, another vegetable grower, `Ah Thong` koewteow soap seller`s father would sell his home-made ice-cream `potong/batang` for 5c each.

Behind the main building of dry market in Tanjong were few rows of about 10` x 10` cubicles for traders. They would display their merchandises on a 3 feet high platform. They were mostly clothing material and other products for personal uses. I did not know whether those traders kept their merchandises there or not. I knew of one, `yee` Wan Kheng (mother of MR. CHUA BOON HOCK) who would have her merchandises bundled up with cloths and brought them with her in trishaws to the market and returned with them in the afternoon. Cars were not easily affordable. Only the very rich could afford to own cars. Unlike today, every Tom, Dick and Harry can afford cars. When the central market complex, Pasar Kedai Payang was completed in 1970`s or early 1980`s, this dry market in Tanjong was demolished to make way for concrete building where Astaka Supermarket now stands.

 On the other end of `sua pek` along Jalan Tanjong (Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin), a clock tower was erected for the purpose of declaration of Independence on August 31, 1957. On that historical night, I was there to witness it. Right on the dot of midnight, there was a shout of `Merdeka! Merdeka! Merdeka` The Union Jack was lowered and a new Malayan Flag was raised by uniformed personals. There were a lot of high ranking officials and dignitaries there. One of the English man accepted the folded Union Jack presented to him. I supposed he must be the British Adviser (BA) for the State, which my parent used to mention, as a lot of English personnel used to patronise my parent`s crockery shop. In fact I went to witness the eventful night without knowing head or tail about the politic and of what Independence means until I was much older.

In early 1970`s, the Clock Tower was move to the junction of Jalan Kedai Payang (Jln. Kampong Cina), Jalan Tanjong (Jln. Sultan Zainal Abidin) and Jalan Kampong Daek (Jln. Kota), to make way for new central market, Pasar Kedai Payang. This historical and unfortunate Clock Tower was again removed to, I do not know where, as it post as an obstruction to the flow of traffics when the new multi-stories car park was completed in 1980`s. There must be an auspicious spot for such a historical monument to be placed, as it was not very big. Maybe the Authority at that time did not want to remember the Colonial era, as it was not carefully removed as when it was first removed from `sua pek` to the junction where the 3 roads meet. Recently, there erect a clock tower at the Water Front,  Jalan Balik Bukit, the structure resemble that of the original, but the original one had cultural and economic activities curvings on slabs on all 4 sides just below the clocks. With the new Centre Market, Pasar Kedai Payang completed and in operation in mid-1970`s, we saw a few young Chinese men from West Coast ventured to Kuala Terengganu to start as large scale importers and retailers of West Coast vegetables. Only then, the people of this Kuala Terengganu town had the chance of tasting such vegetables as kalian, sear pak chai, corniflower, carrot and some others.

1 comment:

  1. Thank you to the person who created this blog. It is an incredible and valuable historical record of KT's Kampong Cina in the mid-1900s. I am deeply grateful and appreciative of the effort to preserve the stories of bygone years.

    It is currently mid-August 2020 and I just happened upon this site today. My grandmother Chan Wan Kheng (RIP), was the textile (batik) seller mentioned in this blog. She had a batik shop by the bridge (103 Jln. Kampong Cina) which I believe was demolished and converted to a parking lot.

    My father Chua Boon Hock, also mentioned in this article, was one of the local boys who attended Brinsford College in Wolverhampton, England. He now resides in Bandar Utama, Petaling Jaya and still in touch with some of his boyhood friends e.g. Lee Mar Chow. His younger brother Chua Boon Seng, a retired teacher, is still in KT. His sisters, Chua Boon Bee (in Singapore) and Chua Boon Poh (in Perth, Australia), are still very active and consider KT their home. If I recall correctly, they are the sixth generation to call KT home.

    It is through records such as this that KT, Kampong Cina, and its residents (past and present) are memorialized and recognized for posterity. For that, I thank the author of this blog.
    It is my hope

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